Santa Cristobal Island
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SAN CRISTOBAL – THE LAND OF THE “LOBOS”
In the tiny amicable town of San Cristobal you get to know a lot of people in a little amount of time. Within two weeks of being here you'll be greeting new acquaintances with every other step as you walk down the street and what set out to be a trip to the store turns into a trip to a café for coffee with friends. Nothing gets done quickly here but then again what would be the reason to rush in this laid back place? This town has a very relaxed vibe and visitors pick up on this as soon as they arrive. Washed over by a welcoming tide of greetings from the lovely locals, the moment you step foot on land you know it's going to be hard to leave.
Most everything here is within walking distance and with barely any traffic shooting out fumes you can simply enjoy a lung-full of fresh air. I was quite amazed to learn that houses don't have numbers, just names. You can find your way home by asking for the ´house of Marcos Restrepo´ or the ´home of Mercedes´ (depending on who you live with of course!). After a year of living in relative obscurity in the vastness of Bangkok, I still find this concept both warming and amusing.
The Island is a lot different than what I expected. It's less green and more rocky. It's smaller and there are less tourists than I expected. One thing's for sure though, I'm not disappointed. It's a beautiful place and living here is easy. Let me describe my typical day:
I wake in the morning to the sound of sea-lions greeting each other on the beach opposite my house. I open my curtains and watch them waddle across the sand, so graceful in water and so awkward on land. Whether rain or shine it's always warm here, which makes strolling around enjoyable.
My afternoons are spent teaching English to children as a volunteer. After classes, I head across the road and sit outside Calypso café to watch the pink hue of dusk settle upon the ocean, a rose backdrop for the sparkling white cruise ships moored up for the night. Sea-lions gather upon the beach craning their glistening bodies backwards like advanced yoga instructors, whilst palm trees swish in the gentle breeze.
In the night, I usually take a walk down to the new pier. Green lights shine into the water so that the sea becomes a clear pool and once again I'm entertained by my whiskered friends bobbing about in play. I watch the babies, their shiny black bodies jetting about like mini torpedoes. The older ones show off their skills, jumping high above the water with the young ones following close behind trying to imitate their elders. One night, a huge ray glided gracefully under the pier with four little curious cubs in tow, their noses pointed at its tail. Not normally the sensitive type, I was surprised by how moved I was by this spectacle and know now why I never tire of this place.
My weekends are spent taking leisurely walks to various beaches, snorkeling with turtles or relaxing in the sun.
My night times are spent eating dinner at ocean side restaurants then salsa-ring the night away or dancing the merengue with the local Latinos. Everybody here it seems loves to dance. And so maybe now you know why I love living here. Whether you're here as a tourist or a regular it really doesn't matter. San Cristobal will cast that I'll just stay a few more days' spell upon you and before you know it you'll have been here for weeks.
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