Santa Cristobal Island
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VISITOR SITES
PUNTA CAROLA
Punta Carola is a grainy beach with two rocky ends stretching out to sea. On the right is a red lighthouse and behind are scruffy green bushes and spiky trees barren of leaves. Early in the morning, it's deserted except for the dozing Leon Dormidos that lie amongst the sharp boulders strewn across the sand. The tide is a bit low for swimming but beneath the shallow water you'll witness turtles poking up their funny faces or even the odd booby diving down and skimming it's stomach across the water. In the afternoon, the tide is higher and is ideal for snorkeling. Although I found it a little murky, it was shallow enough for good viewing and within five minutes I was swimming alongside a huge turtle that glided along with surprising speed. The highlight for me was when I found one lazily munching on some seaweed on the ocean floor, surrounded by a shoal of floating yellow fish, rocking back and forth in the moving water. He seemed completely unalarmed by my presence and was happy for me to hang around and watch him feed. I finished off the day by sitting on the beach and watching the sun set above the clouds and then strolled back home on a natural high.
FRIGATEBIRD HILL
To find Frigatebird Hill, head out towards Playaman beach and keep walking past it until you come to a dirt track. Here, turn right and keep following the road to a winding bridge that leads you to the ´Centro de Interpretacion´. Here you will find a mine of useful information about the Galapagos and it's well worth giving it half an hour to an hour of your time. In the reception hall are large chunky maps on the walls with cute colourful paintings of wildlife and other wonders that are found here. Out the other side and to the right is the main visitors centre. As you walk through, large photos and pieces of writing tell the whole amazing story of the Galapagos. It tells of how the archipelago was first formed and also of Charles Darwin´s first landing and the profound feelings that this place invoked and how it possibly had a great impact on his future writing. It gives a thorough history then ends with the issues that we face here today. Walking through the centre, a great feeling of satisfaction washes over you as you begin to comprehend that you are in fact stood on one of the most unique places on planet earth. Now if this doesn't inspire your walk then nothing will.
As you come out of the other side of the centre, you will find a sign that welcomes you to Frigatebird hill and a map that indicates the various trails to take. Be sure to wear good shoes as the trail is more a line of craggy sharp rocks than a smooth path and my backless sandals almost ensured that my heels were scraped to pieces. I tried to follow the map to memory but instead let myself get lost amongst the cactuses and parched white trees that clawed upwards and obscured my view of anything but the overcast sky. As I tread from rock to rock, stepping over small lava lizards that darted about, I every so often came upon a green national park sign that let me know that I was at least heading somewhere. Finally I found a set of wooden steps that took my tired legs up to some excellent views of the ocean atop Frigatebird hill. Afterwards, I ventured down to a snorkeling point and hung my red hot toes into the water whilst listening to the shush and lull of the sea. To my right was a small cave that contained a small clan of sealions and a curious cub ventured over to check me out. He swam past on his back looking at me through one eye then disappeared under the turquoise depths, a smooth black blob shimmering beneath the surface. As I walked back up the trail, I turned to find him poking his head over the rock where I'd sat and searching for me. In place was the shell of a Sally Lightfoot crab which he shoved with his nose then swam onwards. Off to another viewpoint, I found myself peering down on some blue footed boobies, their feet highlighted by the white stained rocks on which they were perched. I stood for a while and watched them dive-bomb down like mini missiles into the water looking for food. Frigate birds flew overhead with arrow like tails, gliding and swooping, their black silhouettes against the imposing clouds. Another path took me to a huge statue of Charles Darwin surrounded by the wildlife of the Islands. A fleeting visit to an abandoned rusting canon came next then on I went to Punta Carola.
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